Hand Piecing

I have found it helpful to convert an old hard cover eyeglass cases into a traveling sewing kit.  

I made a pincushion from two small pieces of fabric (about half the length of the eyeglass case)sewn together and stuffed with batting - I glue this to one side for pins. On the other half of that side, I've hot-glued one of those freebee magnetic credit cards we get as business cards or advertisements - to hold sewing needles that I don't want lost in the pincushion.

They eyeglass case is big enough to hold a small pair of scissors, several bobbins strung together and filled with different colors of thread needed for my project, a thimble and a few bandages ;o)

Now I don't have to worry about the scissors or pins poking through and it's a pick-up-and-ready-to-go kit!  Embellish the outside of the case as desired and don't forget to put your name on it, in case it is left behind at a workshop!

Diann Becker

As with most quilter's hand sewing is a NO NO.  But there comes a time in every quilter's life where we need to pick up a needle and do the "H" word.  Here are a few tips to make your life easier.

1.  To prevent twisting and knotting of your thread always wax prior to threading the needle preferably with beeswax.  This little habit will save you many moments of stress as you untwist and pull the knots.  Or purchase waxed linen thread.  Expensive but worth its weight in gold.

2.  Always thread the needle using the thread as it comes off the spool.  Thread has a smooth (as it comes off the spool) way and a rough way (opposite of the way the thread comes off the spool).  Along with waxing the thread glides through your fabric.

3.  Recommend the use straw needles for hand sewing.  They are extremely pliable and have the lenght to work for hand sewing and hand applique.  I cheat and use them for hand quilting as well.  My preference is size 10 or 11.  I find the 8 and 9's don't bend as nicely. 

4.  For those of us who have reached the time in our life where seeing the needle eye and threading the needle is extremely difficult, I recommend the needle threader from Clover.  This is the brown threader (now it is available in other colors) that runs approximately .  IT IS WORTH EVERY PENNY.  Your needle will be threaded perfectly every time.

5.  The knot.  Once the needle is threaded place the tail of the thread toward the eye of the needle.  Wrap the thread around the needle from 3 to 5 times depending on the size knot you desire.  Place your thumb and forefinger over the wrapped threads slowly pull these threads down the needle and down the thread till you reach the end of the thread.  A little practice and you will have a perfect knot every time.

6.  Lastly, for those of you who cannot adapt to a thimble I highly recommend "Finger Gloves".  This is a latex product that fits over your thimble finger.  It is thin enough that you can still feel the needle yet thick enough that the needle does not penetrate the latex.  The only draw back is that you finger can become sweaty from long hours of sewing but much better than a hole in your finger tip.

7.  Thanks for reading my tips and product suggestions.  Have fun implementing these simple yet time and finger saving tips.

Arlette Cheramie

I bought a Hedgehog Needle Puller for my best friend whose hands and wrists would hurt so badly. She was using a needle-nose pliers to help pull the needle through the fabric but now she using the needle puller and loving it. She doesn't wear out as fast.

I never could understand why hand piecers cut off the seam allowance only to draw it back on after tracing around the pattern piece on the seam line. I enjoy hand piecing and wanted it as easy as possible. Cut your pieces as you would normally do for machine piecing. Pin 2 of the pieces together as if you're going to machine piece. Then take a piece of the 1/4" quilting masking tape that you can find in any store in the quilting supplies. Lay the tape so that one edge of it matches the outer edge of the pattern piece. Then stitch along the inner edge of the tape. The piece of tape can be used several times. After sewing the 2 pieces together remove the tape. You'll have a perfect 1/4" seam allowance. This will save you a lot of time. No more tracing pattern pieces onto fabric. Aria Rogers Indiana

Don’t need to waste your money on expensive Teflon templates when hand stitching patchwork. I have discovered that the BEST material for templates is discarded cereal boxes. And… it doesn’t cost anything. While working on a “Grandmother’s Flower Patch” quilt (honeycomb pattern), I cut out some of my templates from a cereal box. The cardboard is somewhat flexible (making it easier to get around the corners, etc.) and the cardboard backing acts as a mild type of ‘sandpaper”, keeping the fabric in place while stitching around template. Putting the hexagons together, I whip stitch around the pattern and get perfectly beautiful hexagons. I started out using the expensive, store-bought Teflon ones and they slip all over the place. Forget the ironing around the Teflon and go to this method – it’s quicker and easier to do!

for some reason or other i always have uneven edges when sewing (by hand/machine) the pieces that make up the sections of a block, thus when cutting the various pieces from a template, etc.  i find that by cutting an additional 1/2 inch seam allowance this gives you the size you originally wanted.  the trick then is to center the individual sections and this is done by starting from the middle; match up the lines and once you're sure that they are centered pin, stay stitch and sew beginning from center out.  Then once you've done one side (i.e. right side), do the other side (left side) the saem way - start from middle and sew outward.

When I wanted to learn how to hand piece a quilt block I didn't want to have to cut off the seam allowance only to have to draw it later. So, I bought a roll of the quilters 1/4" TAPE. Cut out the quilt block as if you're going to machine piece it. Pin 2 of the pieces together. Then tear off a piece of the 1/4" tape and place it on the seam allowance. Then sew along the inside edge of the tape. When you have that edge done then take the tape off and use it on the next seam allowance you're going to sew. One piece of the 1/4" tape can be used several times. I've sewn several quilt blocks by hand using this method. Aria Rogers BusyGrammie@verizon.net

Before you begin sewing pieces cut and assembled at an angle, you need to ensure all points match up correctly. Sewing pieces that do not align at the precise angle will throw off the entire block and make piecing the block quite difficult. Also, when sewing the pieces, use one continuous length of thread instead of stopping and starting. A continuous piece of thread will provide more strength to the seams and frequent knots could create an additional bulge in the block.

Piecing curved pieces can be difficult, as the curves need to be smooth and continuous. If the curves turn out angled or awkward, they will not fit correctly into the block. Mark a halfway spot on each piece where the seam will be sewn. These dots will allow you to easily line up the pieces and pin them together. If you sew the pieces together in a tight manner, the pieces will be bulky, therefore ease your stitches into any additional fullness that may occur.

Your take of piecing the blocks by hand will be considerably easier if all pieces are cut along the straight of the fabric's grain. Also, cut triangles where the straight of the grain meets the biased edge. Careful cutting will ensure the pieces will not stretch and that all pieces will lay absolutely flat. This will allow you to pin and sew these pieces together much quicker and with little aggravation than haphazardly cut pieces.