Applique Techniques

The first Applique I made was the sunbonnet kids. I did not leave extra material to fold under so the dolls would not ravel when washed. I found an easy way to leave extra material so you can fold under. I am also a scrapbooker and I have a "Magic Matter" that is metal circles in 4 differed diminsions. I used the 1/4 circle and traced around my template and then traced my template. Then I cut out the designe and folded the 1/4 over lay in and ironed.

If you fussy cut a lot of shapes to enhance a landscape or applique design, I have found that using even smaller, incredibly sharp scissors sometimes tedious.  I discovered that using an exacto knife and an Olfa Rotary Point cutter much faster and often more prescise.  It helps to back your fabric with Heat and Bond, or spray with heavy duty starch.  Many of my designs are intricate, and this technique combined with a light box yields terrific results. 

I tend to use a lot of Emboidery thread to applicae and embelish my work as it stands out much nicer than sewing thread. 

Since most does not come on spools, if I don't have extra spools to wrap it on, I use emptied toilet tissue holders.  Just tape one end to the roll, wind the thread around, then cut a small slit to hold the loose end. 

This can then be stood on a large spool holder for use with a machine, or used easily for hand use, without the tangled mess you would normally have.

If you don't have a sandpaper board to hold your fabric steady in order to trace around a template, try putting a sheet of fine sandpaper on a regular clipboard and using it instead. Works great and it's easy to replace. You can also use the clip to hold your templates and keep them together.

When layering applique pieces with fusible web I use parchment paper as a pressing sheet. The fusible doesn't stick to the parchment paper and I can then press and lift off the applique pieces.

I found that if I take small pieces of stablizer (the sticky on both sides kind) and cut squares and place them in the middle . I like

because if I make a mistake on the edge of my sewing, I can easily take out the stitches and the edges are free from stablizer. and I don't have to cut the whole project I m working on.

                                  sewldy1

A quick and easy method for cutting out your farbric for the english paper piecing hexagons is to add 1/2inch (2 x 1/4inch seams) to the width of your hexagon and cut out fabric squares to suit. E.G 2inch hexagon, cut 2 1/2inch fabric square. Baste the fabric to the paper piece as normal, then trim the excess from the back allowing for 1/4inch seam allowance all the way round. Then you can piece your hexagons as normal.This saves hours of time cutting out exact hexagon fabric shapes.

Cheers Cheryl

An easy way to make sure your appliqued design is centered on the block before adding sashes is to make an outline drawing of the design on tissue paper or typing paper. Cut the paper to the size of your block. Place the drawing over the appliqued design and mark the edges where the sashes belong.

When you're first learning to machine applique, don't be discouraged if you have a few irregular gaps in the stitching. Rather than give up and leave the project unfinished, take permanent marker  as close to the same color as your thread and lightly "fill in" the gaps until it appears to be solid stitching. Not only does it enhance the look of the applique, you don't feel so bad. The more you quilt, the better you'll become. And before you know it, those permanent markers are used strictly for embellishments!

use postage cylinders for storing iron on applique material to keep in good condition between uses.